A Lavender Interlude

After we left the town of Kaikoura, we went on a two-day hike along the coast and up into the mountains. Before we drove off for the hike, though, we stopped at Lavendyl Lavender Farm. The lavender here is in full bloom. It is full summer now. The lavender was alive with color and with bees. It was impossible not to be happy there.

Enlarge this one and you’ll see all the bees!

The Kaikoura Coast Track

The Kaikoura Coast Track is a two-day hike which goes along a section of deserted beach, then up through private farm land to the mountains and forest. The people who own the land, and manage the hike, are fourth-generation sheep farmers who are conservationists and ambassadors. They have been managing the walkers on this hike for twenty two years now. We stayed in a beach house the night before the hike, and Bruce drove all of our gear except our day-packs up to another cottage. That was our destination for the day, a 13-kilometer hike.

We arrived late in the afternoon, and we had the house to ourselves. There is room enough for ten people on the hike, but on this day, we were the only ones.
The Beach House
Taking advantage of the late-afternoon light
We put our gear here in the morning, then started hiking. It was waiting for us at the end of the day.
Look for the Ws. We guessed it stood for Walkers.
The beginning of the hike, down to the beach.
A bit of a scramble.
Heading south
A New Zealand fur seal taking a break.
We saw Hector’s Dolphins swimming and leaping. New Zealand is the only place that they live.

We hiked down the beach for about five or six kilometers, then turned off to start inland. The turnoff was marked with a Fern Flag, and there was a shelter there, ideal for lunch. There was coffee and tea bags, and running water, and if you were so inclined, you could build a fire and boil water in one of the pots. If we had been in Argentina with Argentinians, we could have had mate, their national drink.

The trail climbed up to a lookout point, from which you could see north and south along the coast. We then entered forest land, and continued up mostly, with a lot of twists and turns through the trees and along the stream.

The binoculars were a surprise treat.
Looking south
The Banks Peninsula is off the coast from Christchurch.
Looking north. The Kaikoura Peninsula is in the haze.
Looking east. Chile is the closest land, almost 6000 miles away. The albatrosses from the other day came over from there.
After The Lookout—Inland and Upward
Fenced off from grazing stock since 2002, a long gully/watershed on the ranch has been allowed to remain and regrow in native flora. And it is so dedicated in perpetuity through the QEII National Trust. The Trust partners with private landowners to protect natural and cultural sites. Bruce told us that across the country the combined area of QEII lands is larger than Abel Tasman Nat’l Park. Another of the amazing efforts New Zealand is making towards conservation!
The fence was there for any stray sheep. We had to climb over it a few times.
After we emerged from the woods, we were almost home. This was at the top of the hill. All down from here.
Our cottage was on a sheep farm.

We chose Option B for the second day of the hike, which took us on the road back to the beach, rather than on a trail through the mountains, to return to the beach house. This shortened the hike by a few kilometers, and eliminated more of the steep ups and downs. Bruce again ferried all of our stuff back to the starting and ending point. It is a pleasure to hike with just a day pack, and end your day with a hot shower and a soft bed, plus have all of your stuff, including a bottle of wine and dinner, waiting for you.

Hanmer Springs

Having planned ahead for after the hike, our next destination was the alpine village of Hanmer Springs. It is a holiday town centered around the thermal springs right in the middle of the town. The town itself is in the mountains, and it often resembled a town in the Colorado Rockies. There are 22 different pools in the springs complex, all of them geo-thermal. It is a classic Kiwi holiday place. We soaked in the hot water and had fun watching all the New Zealand families reveling in the water wonderland.

This is where the big water slide ends. You careen down and around, then up into the fern. Lots of squeals and laughter.
The whirlpool takes you round and round. Kind of like a water bumper car ride.
Some families came in the morning and stayed all day.
Most people just left their stuff in a cubby. You could rent a locker, three dollars for two hours. At the end of two hours, you got a 15-minute grace period, then the locker wouldn’t open for you. We asked about it, and asked how much does it cost if you exceed the grace period. “Oh, nothing, we just come out and open it for you. It’s all good.” Very kiwi.
After a hike, after a soak, a little downtime. Now it’s further down the South Island, toward Christchurch. Hasta luego.

5 thoughts on “A Lavender Interlude

  1. You two sure know how to have unique and awesome adventures. Your faces look soooo relaxed! I’m still a bit envious of that blue sky. Amazing that you are 21 hrs “ahead “of me. Thanks for sharing. Hugs M.A.

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  2. Wow!! What an adventurous hike, amazing scenery, fabulous pics. Perfect planning, following up with a day of relaxation in geo thermal pools….what could be better. You guys look great. So enjoying following along!

    Love,
    Denise

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  3. This looks lovely. The hike looked a bit challenging but so worth it. I bet it smelled heavenly in the lavender fields. Love the photos to complement the writing. Travel safe. Rain and cold here. Typical weather I would say so you are in a better place for sure.
    We look forward to the next installment. xo Us

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